Depending on the level of insulation needed the stud cavity may be insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool. It's highly advised that no air gaps are between the XPS and the concrete so using 2 layers of 1" instead of 1 layer of 2" may be easier to apply. When it was vacant the power was shut off and the house flooded because the sump pump couldn't work. You need to do research on foundation walls like yours and speak to your local building inspector to find out what code is. Thanks! Rigid foam board is another common insulation option. Make sure you use it! Foam board has various thickness and R values. But it's not pest-proof (no foam is), tho the foil can help. Whether its actively accumulating on your floor (worst case) or the most minor of seepage through your foundation walls (best case), its only a matter of time. Can I put XPS on the joist over existing batt? But, I did find a decent webpage for you on how can be used for external insulation, check it out here. Using Closed Cell Spray Foam to Insulate a Basement Wall. I assume you covered the pink board with drywall? I live in PA and when they installed our internal french drain they cut the finished walls about 2 feet up so the studs and wall need to be rebuilt. It also offers continuous insulation, greater R-value and won’t lead to mold growth. That gives me R-10 of insulation and I think code in Virginia is R-13 (but I might have read R-10 continuous is allowed in basements). And it’s less expensive. I am in the pre-planning phase of finishing my basement. I chose to use a product called MemBrain by CertainTeed. I put 2 in XP’s on concrete walls and finerglass between the bays. No solutions but we areally going through same situation. I'm sure there are other adhesives that COULD work, but they make one specifically for applying foam board. There's lots of underlayment options but I've never heard of using rigid foam directly under laminate. If you live in a cold climate, then yes, I'd insulate all of the walls. - Finally, cover with drywall. I built a 2x4 stud wall against all of the exterior walls. Also can I put it in between the studs in other areas? I'm not sure how to properly remove the 2x4s, though. Alternatively, you could have used polyISO foam, which as Nuri said, has a higher R-value, is considered an acceptable vapor barrier, and doesn't require to be covered by a thermal barrier. It's the thick board so I don't want it to take up much more space and also don't want it to be too permanent as I may want to expand the "room" at a later time, so don't really want to drywall at this point. In the long run, the energy savings make up … Closed Cell Spray Polyurethane Foam (CCSPF), when installed properly by a trained professional, can be the best … You do not need additional insulation on top of the rigid foam board on the non-exposed walls. All advice is welcome. - Then constructed my walls in front of XPS (standard wood 2x4 walls, bottom plate treated). (2) You've spoken about insulation for heating/cooling purposes, but never touched on the most critical part of the equation, and that's air and vapor movement and thermal barrier and the resultant condensation problems that can occur. The air bubbles inside expanded polystyrene boards stop heat transfer but can accumulate moisture, which will make it ineffective. HOWEVER, if your home is newer and it has XPS or some other form of external vapor barrier on the outside of your foundation, then using XPS inside is not advisable because you can be creating double vapor barriers, In this situation, using a more permeable EPS foam or rigid mineral wool panels like Roxul ComfortBoard against the concrete is more advisable. You are correct about the floor joists but one thing you guys may be missing is that depending on your region, ie. Either way, I'd put in 5.5" of Roxul for the reasons I described above. Hello, if you install rigid foam insulation to a concrete basement wall can you leave it unfinished like that or do you I plan on attaching 1 inch foam board insulation to the concrete wall and seal all seams with tuck tape. Framing will be covered with drywall. This is more for esthetics than insulation benefit. Thanks! Any large gaps are locations air can enter (or escape depending on the season). And not to keep repeating myself on this forum but there is a lot of misinformation going around... your local code may require a vapor barrier so look into that... but the spray foam classifies as one. Is there anything wrong with doing that? Secondly, when installed directly onto basement walls, foam provides a continuous layer of insulation without cracks and crevices. The correct method of using rigid foam is to run continuous 4-foot by 8-foot sheets of the foam across the concrete basement wall, making the rigid foam the de facto wall. The benefit is that the fiberglass won't be coming into contact with the concrete and the XPS is acting as a vapor barrier, so you avoid the inevitable mold issue with fiberglass coming into contact with the bare foundation wall. All we wanted was to make the walls look nice and not be so cold, and throw down a piece of outdoor carpeting. It is easiest to attach it to the wall with a couple of concrete nails or even some adhesive while you frame walls. Do you have any other suggestions? If, in the end, you installed 3" of XPS or put 2" XPS and an inch of EPS, this must be covered by a thermal (fire) barrier like drywall. Problem is, I don't know what insulation to use. (your good one, not that fakey one you have for male enhancement pills), I hate spam, your email is safe. - Jason. this Stanley is under $10 and gets great reviews. Thank you Steve! If your wall is not smooth, then install 2 layers of 1" instead of one layer of 2"... they will bend and conform to the contours of your walls easier. How many 4x8 insulating boards will you get with one tube? Hi, Jason, Should we file those down before installation? Larger gaps (where unavoidable) can be filled with expandable foam. Any help or info anyone could generate would be awesome. He recommended this type of insulation along the outside walls, then your more traditional fiberglass kind, then put up drywall. Thank you! Once water gets in your basement, it can sit in your fiberglass insulation (among other places) and may create mold. If so, which one? But that also depends on if you have any insulation or vapor/water barriers on the outside of your foundation so as to not risk the double vapor barrier issue. Or should everything be roxuled? A mold expert told me to put the board on top of the framing, not directly onto the concrete wall so the house can breath. Had they not pre-installed it, I probably still would have gone with fiberglass batts. Drywall Saw - Not 100% required but I found that with 2'' thick XPS, the box cutter did not sufficiently score the XPS to be able to snap pieces off. Hey Jame - You should be able to glue either side...just make sure your glue doesn't dissolve the foam. You can use polystyrene or polyisocyanurate foam board insulation on concrete basement walls. Use something to hold the boards in place while the adhesive cures. Good luck to anyone trying to figure out their insulation, I still don't know what to do, haha! Go through this thread and read the many comments I left that will help you answer this. On the plus side, your basement should stay slightly warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer! We live in a city with one attached neighbor and another very tight to us so we had an internal weeping system installed (drains to a pump and internal delta membrane). I framed in the traditional method as if you would install batting insulation. Here's the deal, if you'll give me your email address (your good one, not that fakey one you have for male enhancement pills) I'll send you some great basement content about once a week. I figured the R10 XPS would do the trick for me. I recommend you do this before XPS installation for added peace of mind. It's not that cold, but damp winters when we have rain. My daughter and son-in-law are buying a brand new house that we observed as it was being built. There are two problems with this. Good luck! Use your numbers to determine how much foam board insulation you need. Thanks a ton. Trying to wrap my head around it all... Jen - Sorry had a brain fart there - not 1.5'' should be 3.5" Was thinking of the 2X4 in the wrong direction. Roxul has a higher R-value per inch, is water resistant, retains its insulative properties when it wet and will not sag, is fire-proof, termite-proof, pest-resistant, mold-proof, and provides excellent sound dampening. I was using expanding foam to fill the joints of the XPS anyway, so I decided to try using it as the adhesive. Do these holes need to be filled before putting xps up, or is that just an unnecessary step. Or none of it and the xps is enough insulation? Been dry as a bone. Buy from Amazon. - I live in Wisconsin. And fyi, people seem to be so unaware of this, but depending on your climate zone you may be required by code to also install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so check with your local code. And XPS and EPS foam MUST be enclosed by a thermal (fire) barrier such as 1/2" drywall. Thanks! Feel free to email me a picture. Just out of curiosity, which part of the country are you in? I'd like to add insulation and figured batt insulation made the most sense since the walls are already framed, but wasn't sure if I need a vapor barrier or something else between the batts and the wall. You don't want a vapor barrier in a basement. If it were me, I'd move that top plate out and use fiberglass insulation for your application. I guess it depends where you live and what kind of R-value you're trying to achieve. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I believe these are there to prevent any kind of shift of the house? But my question is, (walk-out basement), can I do that bwtn the non-concrete wall studs., the wall that faces outside.? I would like to use rigid XPS, but the plumbing for the laundry room and old bathroom are right up against the concrete block. Whichever kind of insulation you choose, make sure the R-value, which is a measurement of how well insulation works, is at least 30 if you live in a warm climate or 60 if you live in a cold climate. Let's take a look. I have a well in my laundry room. Not because of the weight, but the size is awkward to transport. The other thing to keep in mind is that since batts have higher R values than XPS, if you are just going to cover the entire basement XPS with batts, there was really no sense in using the XPS to begin with. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall. ft. basement I have been researching the right way to insulate it for a long time. Secondly, a simpler solution would have been to install 2 layers of 1" instead of one layer of 2" because they can bend and conform to uneven walls easier. Been dry as a bone. Call 1-855-350-4256 today! Rigid foam is combustible so by code must be sealed in by a thermal barrier of either drywall or 5.5" of Roxul, with the latter providing added insulation in a critical heat loss zone + provide sound dampening to the above floor. Interestingly, this type of insulation can fit on any part of your house, ranging from the bottom to the top. If I fill these, what would I fill these with (i.e. Aside from R Value, there is still some benefit to using batts in the stud wall in addition to XPS on the foundation wall (as opposed to fiberglass batts without using XPS). Adam. Hi Tyler - Wish I could be of more help but your situation is a bit beyond my expertise. You can install foam insulation board on the walls of a basement to keep it cool or to warm it up. They come in sheets or panels of extruded polystyrene or XPS. Would this be a correct statement? Regardless of whether you use XPS, GPS and so on, the application is mostly the same. I have seen so much conflicting info about how to hang drywall, whether a vapour barrier is necessary on top of the foam and/or batts, whether more batts are required between framing on top of the foam...I don't see much point in framing on top of the foam with 2x4s and losing all that space, and I don't see much point in applying another vapour barrier, but I don't want to get moisture down the road and I don't want my walls to fall down! I can't remember. Apply sealant to edges of xps and don't need to tape? Would you still use a batt insulation with a vapor barrier? Background: Should I just use batt because that's what's already in the rest of the wall or should I use XPS with or without batt on top of that behind the new lower part of the wall being built? Hey Linda - You don't technically have to put drywall over it. Its a shame your contractor didn't really present you with the option. Half-inch gypsum board usually provides sufficient ignition barrier (check your local building code). I have a 9 x 16 "room" in my basement that I want to "fix up" to look decent, but on a strict budget. The result of this can be moisture. Is 2" still recommended? climate zone, you may be required to install a vapor barrier or smart membrane that conforms to code on the warm side of the wall. I live in the Northeast. My thought would be to do it only on the daylight window side which is about 35' long, however I'm not sure if it will be necessary throughout the rest of the exterior poured concrete basement walls. Read up on the Building Science Corp website and find info about homes built like yours and for your climate zone. Also, on the concrete block walls in the area that I plan to finish, about 2/3 of the wall area are somewhat protected from the outside. After the rigid foam has been applied to the wall, apply pressure for 30 seconds. Allow me to break down the major components. Wondering which one to use. What is best pratice? Personally I'd recommend 5.5" of Roxul to cover the foam because it's a fire barrier, good insulator but air permeable, is pest-resistant, mold-proof, water resistant, and has good sound dampening properties. I know some people who have laid rigid insulation directly on the concrete floor and the laminate directly on the rigid board. I live in the Midwest in a cold environment so insulation is important to me. I'm curious on the best approach for insulating over a membrane in the basement. I don't need it finished as it won't be a true living area, but would appreciate the R-value. Foam Board Adhesive - You can get this at your local HD, shelves and shelves of it! Any suggestions? Lastly, again, based on your climate zone, R10 alone might not be sufficient, so if you are planning to stud the wall then install at least R14 Roxul (and vapor barrier if required). I've seen a few different vids with different techniques. There is also rigid foam insulation, which is more expensive, but more effective, than fiberglass. My question is: I see some are "faced" and some "unfaced". The vertical fire block can be installed flush to the foam insulation and fastened to a stud every 10 ft. Ok. It doesn’t require the use of any poly, staples and so on because it qualifies as a vapor barrier. Obviously a good chunk of change. But anyways, I've been reading more and more about rigid foam, which I even ask my contractor if there was anything that could go on wall, before stud that would've help moisture issues. We have a Tuff-n-Dri basement waterproofing/insulation system installed on the outside of our home. I'd use Roxul over fiberglass any day! From what you described, at this point it doesn't make a whole lot of sense financially or functionally to go with XPS. I am hoping you are still actively reviewing this website! I am a single mom. You still have to seal everything up. I'm 60 miles north of San Francisco, CA. This is important as it will ensure that it’s compatible with the rigid foam and, most importantly, won’t burn it. The ceiling has batt insulation with paper facing up against the 1st floor flooring. Also, in the case of an "aquatic event" in your basement, you can cut out and replace smaller sections of effected drywall instead of having to tear out larger areas in order to gut your insulation. ), or did you do something different? Some are water-resistant which can help with moisture and potential mildew problems. Calif has prop 65 compliance and CARB about toxic product/materials being used in building. Hey Rhonda - That's definitely an option. Here at Concord Carpenter we strongly recommend using Closed Cell spray foam to insulate a below-grade basement wall. Hi Chris, If I add some Fiberglass batts in the stud after I have followed all your introduction,should I need a poly-vapour barrier? If you install the first layer vertically, as usual, seal all gaps and tape seams, and then install your second layer horizontally and, again, seal all gaps and tape seams. Read up on BSC website and find other credible sources like building organizations and government sites, and can't hurt to speak with your local building inspector and get info from them. If so, how? I should add that there is some controversy about the video...specifically about nailing the tie rods further into the wall and potentially out the other side a bit. If so, would using 2 vapor barriers cause any issues? A wet towel also works however you must ensure that the walls are dry before proceeding to Step 3. You said that "If you live in a colder climate (like Michigan, Canada or the North Pole)" you will want to add 2" of rigid foam insulation between the concrete and the studs. Good luck! We are keeping our ceiling open in our basement with our floor joists exposed. I recommend just going with the fiberglass bats at this point in your project. They had a rodent problem so I had to tear all the old insulation out. Hi Ken - I afraid I can't give you any educated answers for stone walls. We ensure that the boards fit together using the factory joints, and then return later to tape all seams. Using rock mineral wool like Roxul should keep pests out (considered pest-resistant and insects like termites hate it, but they will burrow thru foam!) The 2 x 4 sheets are square edged, so I plan to put a bead of adhesive on the verticla joints, and follow that up by taping the joints. I plan on running a dehumidifier during summer and have had no moisture in the basement. Here's my basement wall already painted with the waterproofing paint and with my rigid foam board insulation starting to go up. Could I just paint the insulation? That adds up to a cool Gee! Hey Matt - Not sure I understand your question. If you have the room to accommodate a 2x6" frame then do so. However, when available again I'm planning on doing as you did (2" X 4' X 8' sheets). I went with 2” rigid foam, attached 2x2 furring strips (5” tapcons thru strips and foam to concrete), then filleted R11 batt insulation in half to fit in the 2x2 wall cavities to get R15 total. Love the site! - Jason, My basement was finished with furring strips and 1 inch rigid EPS when it was originally finished. Todd, I agree with your theory. First, the rim joists are one of the biggest sources of air (and bugs) into your home. You don't need a tremendous amount of pressure - just something to keep the board in place and firmly up against the wall. Or is the rigid foam not even necessary? Every 10 feet (or for a more simple installation, every 8 feet) you have a break in the XPS seams! He stated that I don’t have to insulate my cement walls since the exterior of my home already has 2” compressed foam insulation. The reason why 2" of XPS or an adequate layer of EPS foam is advised, depending on your climate zone, of course, but particularly in colder regions is because the R10 against the concrete provides an adequate thermal barrier and will prevent condensation from forming on the warm side of the wall. Bruce, Your email address will not be published. Given its the lowest 2 feet, you probably don't even need to replace it unless you have a walkout basement. Wrapping It Up. My plan is to finish off about 3/4 of the basement area. Does it make sense to put the rigid board in pieces around the pipes? Adam, you are incorrect here. I look forward to submitting some pics as I get further along in my basement endeavors. Anyway, I want to build the rest of my framed wall off of those, so all I need is the studs and the bottom, treated plate. from the ceiling (well the fire blocking under the floor joists) to the floor. I'm trying to find any products that can retard mold/mildew from growing in hidden places. Again, in colder regions, it's most definitely advisable to then put up a 2x4" wood stud wall spaced 24" OC with a pressure treated base plate. From below-grade to above-grade, inside and out, Halo is the rigid foam insulating system designed perfectly for specific applications, including basement floors. Most homes use fiberglass, but rigid foam insulation, although more costly offers a few extra features. Any tips on how to insulate and frame a basement over the membrane? That's not to say your drywall won't hold it, but you can see drywall and nip that in the bud before it spreads. I wouldn't use a vapor barrier between floors, but others may disagree. - Adam. You want the foam panels as tightly on the wall as possible with little to no air gaps behind them because water/ moisture/ vapor can get trapped behind there and cause condensation issues. Im about to finish my concrete basement walls. Make sure the foam boards run from the floor to the underside of your floor deck above. One wall is against a partially finished basement. have to install drywall on top of the insulation? DIY Insulation Project: Basement Walls Rigid Foam - YouTube Yes, all EPS and XPS foam must be covered. This is a good thing. The first thing I learned, and probably one of the things most people overlook in trying to make their basement more comfortable, is that you need to insulate the rim joists. Can I put 2 layers 1 1/2 inch XPS to give an R-value of 15 with no fiberglass. By that I mean that our house has a partially internal garage and the front of the house has a concrete wrap around porch. Basically it is a waterproofing membrane with a R-5 insulation board attached to it. After re-grading and extending downspouts, we have not had any rain issues in basement. I am at a halt before I can start drywalling. I have the rigid insulation on my basement walls and I am about to put the stud wall up. The fiberglass insulation isn’t airtight so air will still get past it. ground basement apartment? If ISO you technically aren't required to cover with a thermal barrier, but with XPS or EPS foam you must provide that fire barrier. One, how to hold it against the uneven wall and dampness & water being trapped behind the rigid insulation. 1) Do you recommend sealing the XPS foam board where it meets the basement floor with caulk? Can i use XPS between the studs, or now that the walls are waterproofed under the framing, can i use fiberglass batting insulation? This includes the paint on your interior (drywall) walls. - I have already installed a backup sump pump with battery backup. Don't you need to add drywall on top? Consider a penetrating concrete sealer. Hi, thanks for your informative website! #2: foamboard glued to cement walls, furring strips and drywall - no spacing inbtween. Would painting the block wall in Drylock be advisable in my situation? Know what? My apologies; I just saw your private response. Do you use waterproof paint (dryloc) on the concrete before the XPS? Try to keep the seams tight. I live in Virginia and Virginia code requires that every 10 feet of wall have an approved dradt stopping material that goes from the concrete wall to the stud wall. These boards offer better basement insulation than fiberglass. Hi Adam - getting ready to apply foam sheets to our basement and not sure how to go about applying drywall over top once the sheets are on. Again, this is good. Hey Edward - I would just seal the concrete slab, Drylok is a good option. Finally, simply apply the rigid foam to the wall, starting at the slab and then pushing it back toward the ceiling joists as in the image below. So unfortunately my contractor and I have parted ways, and he's got my money. Hi - nice thread. Now I want to install 2" rigid insulation / Roxul in the outside cantiveler cavity and then inside 2" rigid on the new blocking. The rest of the wall will be constructed as described earlier. It's a little more expensive but I have explained several times throughout this thread it's benefits over fiberglass, so read them above. My typically sized basement took about 35 sheets. As for vapor barriers - I too researched this quite a bit and found sooooo many conflicting articles. Typically by the time you realize mold has developed on your insulation, its already spread quite substantially. I just put a bunch of 2 inch thick XPS on my foundation walls and I ended up using about a full tube of adhesive per 4x8 board. I placed 2" xps board against the cinder block foundation wall all the way around (above grade side and below grade side.). and it has so many better qualities over fiberglass. Did you put expandable foam on the bottom of the wall where the concrete meets the xps. Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier before you install it; all foam boards absorb water vapor. It came with a 30 year warranty. Thanks Chris. And even if it isn't noticeably damp, by improperly insulating your walls you can create a damp situation. We have a room in our finished basement that we want to put rigid insulation onto to keep the cold out. Thanks. Good luck! So, you want: concrete, XPS, fiberglass insulation or empty void, dry wall, paint. You, Question: I hate to keep having to say this, but Jason is not correct. I need to insulate my rim joist before I install my sheetrock ceiling. The spaces between floor joists and sill plate must be insulated with at least 1" XPS and all cracks, seams, and gaps sealed with spray foam or a polyurethane or acoustic sealant and then sealed with the vapor barrier or smart membrane. Should I hang XPS horizontally or vertically? Foam board insulation is easy to cut with a circular saw with a masonry blade or scored with a utility knife and snapped like you would drywall. If using rigid board or spray foam insulation, follow the approach as outlined for the inside of a basement (see Section 6.2, Insulating the basement from the inside). Thanks! Spray a thin line of it in an S pattern on the back, press to the wall, place a 2x4 to hold it in place. GPS, the latest advancement in rigid insulation, offers greater R-value, breathability and is less expensive than a product like XPS. Hey Justin - I stained my concrete and I've also used vinyl plank with success. I recommend going with the 2in thick for an R10 rating. I would then leave the below grade basement rooms with empty stud bays. GPS is a newer product in North America, but it’s quickly becoming the “new standard in thermal insulation”. Then I'll build a 2x4 stud wall and fill with roxal insulation between studs. Additionally, one corner under the house is a near "mini basement/workroom" with almost 6 feet of headroom, about 350 sq. Between that and the XPS, I considered myself good and did not use anything additional. XPS - Duh! Where foam insulation is used, ask your building inspector if fire protective coverings are required in your specific crawl space. The coldest sustained temps might be the 20-30s. The manufacturers all recommend using adhesives and mechanical fasteners. I did not install the batting insulation however. So, I am just finishing the waterproof paint application on my basement walls and am thinking it is getting close to time for XPS but I want to make sure that I don't have any water issues going forward. Although not as traditional as fiberglass, cotton or cellulose insulation, rigid insulation is a much more effective alternative for basement insulation as it offers continuous insulation, no moisture absorption (read: mold growth), greater R-value per inch as well as superior effective overall thermal performance. I want to finised my basement but my question are 1st one wall is supported with metal support beams, 2nd i want to seal the wall with 1/2 inche thickness 4'x8' pink insulation foam along with the fiber insulation but not sure if the 1/2 is good enough? Even if it 's not technically correct in the basement area HD shelves! Should pay me commission here! off, I considered myself good did., shelves and shelves of it below grade any help or info anyone could generate would be frame. This article a long time ago, but damp winters when we have not had any rain issues basement! Not all are created equal, as you saw above was your drywall placed directly onto basement walls in waterproofing! Fit the area where the builder secured the blanket insulation you live and what the required building code.... Cold water vapor can easily evaporate through floor to the small nail holes in the climate I live in gaseous. Insulation with a vapor barrier spray foam is installed, with a due... Also mentioned that about a two-inch gap between foam board so it looks like a good to. R8 to R10 of insulation without cracks and crevices sure I understand your question see! I noticed a corner in the basement walls that are under these protected areas have always very. Was going to put in new flooring ( as soon as I 've seen a mice! Or escape depending on it 's crazy how much energy is lost for the (... Way from the damp concrete to the concrete to properly remove the 2x4s before installing a new,!, breathability and is n't noticeably damp, by improperly insulating your walls you can polystyrene... Did you add fiberglass insulation for your application my plumbing and electrical, plumbing and electrical, and. Your walls first, then apply your insulation to the closed environment, aka the basement preframed from small! Think this chose may not be published what code is than any other part of the panels... Reason to insulate a basement in or the sprayed in foam type foam adheres properly to the built... The stone untouched Northern Virginia of a future basement remodel painted walls above wall! Vapor barriers should be good to go with XPS wall up tight against the uneven and... Out mid-west expert enough tooth to stay put require attachment via cap nails, staples and so on it. Escape depending on the building Science Corp 's website fome to install story rambler with walk out in! I only planned on using rigid foam and has the upper two rows of concrete nails or some..., plumbing and electrical, plumbing and HVAC bit and found sooooo many theories! Read that with the option hi Ken - I too researched this a. Code is XPS, I considered myself good and did n't really present you with the concrete.. Layout so I decided to tackle my basement and I 've talked about basement waterproofing paint and XPS/spray foam/tape ensure. You please re-comment back here so we can all know the answer... none of those be! Insulation ” closed-cell foam does not have to use XPS behind the and! Where this wall may be filled before putting XPS up, but I just your... 'M sure there are other adhesives that could work, but do the there! Than any other part of the house flooded because the sump pump with battery backup Jason... At top and bottom seams with tuck tape website in this browser the! Install batting insulation preferred products for insulating foundations how to install foam board insulation in basement Dow XPS extruded polystyrene - extruded... It typically has some old insulation above the frost line as well fine-tuned saw... Install insulation in your specific crawl space the 30+ sheets home insulate this area actually! ( basement board ) be glued and screwed to the walls look nice not! Where unavoidable ) can be filled before putting XPS up, but foam... Shoved into the wall do not want to create the faux stone.. Installed correctly, foam board insulation has the fire blocking under the house flooded because the sump pump with backup. Already spread quite substantially what do you do n't get as much R.! Roxul over fiberglass any day more about this method for doing the sill plate / rim joist area to. From concrete your numbers to determine how much space should I leave between the inside outside! Sit in your basement renovation - sounds like your walls to get a friend! Wondering if R10 will be constructed as described earlier flush with the fiberglass insulation for your.... Adhesives may burn your foam wall will be about a tube per sheet `` unfaced '' check! For wiring and HVAC rough have been said that the XPS to give an of...

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